Climbing

Activity Info

Description

In Valsesia, during the summer, climbing is a sport of absolute relevance, also considering that a huge number of enthusiasts, who periodically attend the many rocky walls scattered among the Valsesian valleys, recognize them as extraordinary and suggestive and able to satisfy all needs. The climbing walls in Valsesia meet the requirements of even the most experienced sportsmen.

Here are the walls dedicated to climbing in the Val Sermenza area:

Boccioleto

• SAS BALMA 1

The climbing routes present have the “block" style and develop on plaques, vertical walls and overhangs. Ideal in the middle seasons, the “Sas Balma” cliff can be enjoyed in the summer afternoons, too. Very short access.

ACCESS: Go through the village of Boccioleto and, at the height of the hamlet of S. Marco, turn right towards “Ronchi”. After five hairpin bends you can see the houses of small village: continue on the steep road on the left up to the stone indicating the evident boulder. In a few moments, you reach the base of the wall.

Typology: cliff

Altitude: 800 m.

Exposition: south-east

• TORRE DELLE GIAVINE

Fascinating and impressive tower of solid gneiss, overlooking the village of Boccioleto, which was conquered by cableway in 1933, thanks to fearless local climbers. The nailing is excellent with resin-coated rings and 10mm stainless fix on the most recent routes; the abseils are made in double along the “Normal" on comfortable chains. The material needed to face the climb are: two 60 m. half-strings, a dozen of quickdraws, a few carabiners, a piece of rope to equip the stops and helmet.

ACCESS: Go past the village and turn right towards” Ronchi”. Park after three hairpin bends near some houses and take the path on the left (signpost N°145a) which in 40 minutes leads to the base of the monolith.

Typology: multipitch

Altitude: 850m

Exposition: est

Fervento

• CLIFF “RONCO”

Divided into seven different sectors, excellently studded with 10mm stainless steel fixings and resin-coated rings, the cliff of Fervento is ideal for beginners. But don't worry, it’s the realm of the “middle degree" of climbing, too: in fact, many itineraries are between 6a and 6c. The rock is an excellent rough and very worked gneiss, with notches, holes and cracks; climbing is always varied and pleasant and is mainly developed on technical reglette walls, cracks and overhangs.

ACCESS: pass the first houses of Fervento, go up the steep road on the right and park the car near a cableway. Take the path (signpost. N. 383) and continue right towards some huts. From here you reach, in short time, the first sectors of the cliff.

Typology: falesia

Altitude: 791 m

Exposition: south

Rimasco

• CLIFF “G. FILISETTI”

Its smooth plates in the right sector still give many climbers a hard time, while the left sector offers quieter climbs with vertical and some roofs. Unfortunately, the state of neglect persists and the vegetation reappears on many sections of the wall: too bad, a minimum of maintenance would be enough to get it back in good condition.

Typology: cliff

Altitude: 800 m

Exposition: east

Carcoforo

• FALESIA “AI SALEÈ”

A beautiful wall of gneiss worked with holes, on which some pleasant easy routes have been traced. Panoramic and quiet place, ideal in summer for a day of climbing in total relaxation.

ACCESS: From the village of Carcoforo, you have to take the footpath that is located on the right of the parking area in the upper part of the village, in correspondence with the wooden signpost. Continue on the path until you cross a small chapel and then turn right on a flat stretch for about 500m. At a hut, a track branches off to the left, which soon leads to the cliff base (20 minutes walk).

Typology: cliff

Altitude: 1304 m

Exposition: west